One of the first things you might appreciate at Afghan Horsemen is the tall and lovely server, Tamara, her dark long hair and swingy. You can't help but think of the country that's invaded our minds of late, and shudder to think of what happens to women like her under the Taliban rule.

The Afghan Horsemen is not a restaurant I'd have given much thought to, except to occasionaly wonder how it's managed to survive for what seems like an eternity - and has actually been 27 years.

But survive it has, thanks to its affordable good food, exotic "pillow rooms" and relationships with decades of customers who kept returning to the family at the center of it all - the Nasiris.

Since Sept. 11, the restaurant has been busier than ever. The only bumps were on that very day when they recieved two verbal assaults because they were Afghani immigrants. One of the callers has since written them a letter, appologizing for his emotional outburst. "I thought it would be bad for business," says Michael Nasiri, whose parents opened the restaurant, "but people were calling, offering support. We got a postcard from a customer in Indiana. He was hoping everyone's family was okay."

Michael's father came to B.C. as a geologist in the early 1970s and his mother, then a teacher in Afghanistan, soon joined him.

If Afghan cuisine sounds exotic, that's only because there's so little of it around. (For a long time, the Afghan Horsemen was the only restaurant of its kind in Canada.) Similar in style to Indian, and with dishes that resemble Greek salad and hummus, Afghan cuisine bears closest resemblence to Persian food with its milder flavours and wonderful use of rice (basmati, which is baked rather than boiled). Saffron, coriander, cumin, cinnamon and turmeric are the spices of choices; yogurt, flatbreads, kebobs and stewy dishes are characteristic.

At Afghan Horsemen, mom Razia is the kitchen goddess, the woman who introduced Vancouver to Afghan cooking. Others now work the kitchen, but she's there at least five days a week, the quality-assurance policewoman.

If you want to gallop through the menu, the Horsemen's Platter ($37.95 and $29.95 for two) cover a lot of territory, fast. The former includes hummus (a lentil dip, not chickpea, as we've come to know in Greek restaurants), sabzi mast (spinach and yogurt dip with pita), chicken and lamb kebobs, braised lamb shoulder, baked rice, baked eggplant in a sauce, dolmah (cabbage rolls), pakawra (battered fried potatoes) and chaka (sour cream and yogurt).

Vegetarian dishes include kabuli palaw (baked rice, topped with sauteed carrots, raisins, almonds), aushak (Afghani ravioli), dahl palaw (lentil stew wit baked rice, spinach, potato and tomato sauce). Even vegans are catered to, with a vegan combo plate.

Individual starters range from $3.95 for soups, to $7.95. Mains are $10.95 to $14.95.

The ofod hasn't changed much over the years, except for some tweaks made by a chef from Kabul who worked there until his visa ran out. Quality ingredients are cooked with patience. I tried not to eat all the pakawra since they're deep-fried, but I was amused by their tastiness. They're crispy outside and not too oily. Similarily, the boulany - a flatbread stuffed with various fillings - was seductive and very nice with the juicy kebobs.

If you have room left for desert, I'd recommend the firni, a light custard which tasted faintly of rosewater. The rice pudding is luscious and creamy, but you'll be happy to know it's made from milk - not cream - reduced until thick.

When you call to reserve, you'll be asked to choose a pillow room or a table. Go for a pillow room, unless your feet are pungent (you'll be taking your shoes off). With their low tables, dim lights and masses of patterned pillows, these rooms offer one of the most exotic dining venues in town. Just know that the Afghanis don't dine this way - they take tea on low tables, but if they're eating a meal they sit around a higher table, or traditionaly spread the meal out on the floor.

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